From Kraków to Toruń - Day One

Day One 25/8/12

The day before had been a bit of a mess considering I had to come to Kraków by via Poznań by train and then prepare myself with the appropriate equipment for the trip I was about to undertake. The key things I needed were panniers (saddle bags), a raincoat, a sleeping mat and some lights for my bike. There were other temptations such as a gas stove among others but but I limited myself to the first three. The Amber Trail (Szlak Burszytnowy in Polish) had a website dedicated to it but no physical map to guide me along the trail. This was what made me more apprehensive than anything else. With the aid of the online map, I circled all of the places that appeared on the route on my road map of Poland with the hope of somehow figuring it all out on the road. It took some time to go through the whole route and when I finally reached the end and circled Gdańsk, I really felt like I had achieved something.

          My bike had been serviced so I expected it to run smoothly and endure the many kilometers ahead – 80 – 100km per day seemed a realistic aim despite the fact that this was the first trip of such a kind I had ever undertaken. With the panniers packed tightly at the back, on top of which was a tent and sleeping mat, it was a bit of a struggle to get going at first. Going out the night before had not been the greatest idea in the world to ensure a smooth start.

          The first part was familiar territory along the River Wisła to Nowa Huta. I was pleasantly surprised to see an Amber Trail sign at Plac Centralna. If all the route was marked out like this, there would be no need for my map at all. The arrow pointed straight and unfortunately that was where the signs ended. I was faced with National Road 79, not what I wanted. It was busy with traffic racing past on both sides but there was no other option it seemed. The first target on the map was Niepołomice which was not so difficult to get to. I followed the signs and arrived there without any mishaps. Niepołomice is famous for its castle but unfortunately I couldn’t go inside it because of the no bikes sign at the entrance. Time for lunch then.

          The next part was tricky. The more favourable choice was to go through the forest and perhaps catch a sight of the żubry (Polish Bison) that are said to be found here. This was the option I chose but it was not long before I was lost and I hadn't seen any żubry. Following the bike signs was confusing as there were different colours and there was no clear indication which one was connected to the trail I was following. Eventually, I asked for help and had to go back onto the main road again, the 965. This was also confusing and so I returned to the forest again where I finally found the way to Mikluszowice with the help of some locals. Asking for directions from locals was something I found invaluable throughout the whole trip and the old man I asked told me that I would have to change my route as the bridge across the Raba was being repaired meaning I would have to go around it another way.

          I got onto the 964 with the aim of getting to Szczurowa and then taking things from there. This road was not too bad. I was now properly in the countryside passing by small village after village. On this road another cyclist soon appeared beside me and asked where I was from. He kept telling me about his time in the U.S.. He was one of these people that insisted on talking about the same topic without really listening to what I was saying, but while he was doing so, I became increasingly nervous by the way he kept swerving into the centre of the road and then back to the side again without any fear of the cars that also had to swerve to avoid him. Still, it was good to have a pacemaker despite the struggle I had to keep up with him. He had an older bike but it wasn’t long before he started pulling away from me. I guess he got bored with me as he put headphones into his ears and accelerated ahead. I was starting to get a bit concerned about where I was going to sleep. Being in the countryside was great but it meant that finding a place to sleep was going to be more difficult and sleeping in a tent was a last option.

          I stopped for a moment to look at the map when the other cyclist somehow came up from behind me seemingly out of nowhere with a smile on his face. I was unsure of where to go and he wasn’t much help. I was aiming for Żabno without knowing what was there and if I was going to stay there or carry on. He took out his glasses, looked at my map carefully and then pointed straight ahead. I knew the way but I guess I was hoping that he would help me find a place to sleep or give me some sort of advice about what to do next, but this didn't happen. Once again, he cycled faster than me and when we got to the outskirts of Żabno, he turned into the carpark for Tesco. I waved farewell to him and continued straight on happy to lose him.

          My legs were really struggling to pedal anymore so I stopped to have a rest and a bite to eat. Dusk was approaching making it very likely that I was going to have to use the tent. I cycled out of town and turned into a small village called Pod Lesie. There, I approached a woman in her garden and asked if there was a place where I could pitch my tent, hoping that she would be so kind as to offer me her garden but she kept looking in my basket repeating that she didn’t want to buy any fish from me. I insisted that I didn't have fish in the bag in my basket but still she said 'Ryby, nie chcę' so I gave up and went to another old lady who bluntly said no to my request. Further down the road I saw a forest and entered it. I had no choice but to pitch up my tent there with or without the permission of someone. The four-man tent was troublesome to set up but I finally managed to do so before it got dark. It was very early but it was dark so I decided to go asleep with the aim of getting up early the next morning and getting back on the road again. I was very uneasy about sleeping in the forest where every sound seemed to be amplified a thousand times – the fall of a leaf was like the fall of a rock pounding into the earth, the movement of small insects sounded like approaching feet. I closed my eyes and kept telling myself that there was nothing out there that was going to harm me, no need to worry...