On 25th of September last year I
finally set out to do something I had been scheming to do all summer while I
was cooped up working at a summer school, go biking from Kraków to … Well, the
initial aim was to follow the Amber Trail (Bursztynowe Szlak) all the way to
Gdańsk but this proved difficult from the outset due to the lack of physical
maps available and the shortage of information online. There was a website
which promised much at first glance but failed to deliver. When I wrote an
email to the contact address asking if there was a map available or more
information, I didn’t receive a reply. With the aid of a road map of Poland, I
traced out my own version of the route by circling each place of significance
on it with the hope that everything would be clearer once I was actually there.
I was hoping that there would be signs on the route as there was information on
the website that this was the case. Another worry was that I also wasn’t sure if
my borrowed bicycle was suitable for such a long trip. It had previously been
ridden from Berlin to Kraków by its real owner so this reassured me a little.
Off The Beaten Track
In the past I have visited some Polish
cities as well as countryside areas but this trip gave me the chance to really
feel the country and in particular explore remote villages that are
inaccessible for someone like me who can’t drive a car. What I found
interesting is that it was hard to not be around any signs of civilization.
Polish villages are usually quite spread out with houses not so close together.
It is often hard to see the division between villages as there is often no
clear border between them. This is unlike in Ireland where you can travel for a
long time without seeing any sign of human activity. Many villages were not
very prosperous in appearance with rather grey buildings lining narrow roads.
This was not true all the time and some villages were quite well maintained but
in general there was not much to make me want to stay in these places. Dogs
regularly barked as I passed by with a heavy load, some threatened to add a bite
to their bark. There were lots of chickens spread out on both sides of the road
or frequently wandering around in drainage ditches. In some villages, there
were no roads only dirt tracks but this wasn’t the case very often with some
roads perfect for riding on. Seeing cabbage, onions and other food growing in
the fields was interesting and gave me one reason to feel tempted to stay and
work on the land. The most amazing memory I have of the trip was the route to
Kazimerz Dolny through apple paradise with trees heavily laden with apples
wherever I went. Further on I took a bike path up a steep hill and saw
raspberries and other fruit being harvested in one of the most picturesque
places I have seen. There was a strong temptation in me to stay there and ask
for a job in return for a place to sleep for the night but I stuck to my
cycling plan.
Locals seemed surprised to see me passing through
despite the fact that many lampposts had bike route signs on them but I never
felt a sense of danger. One man joined me on a part of my trip. He was full of
questions about me and told me he had lived in the U.S. for some time. He was
keen to talk but cycled dangerously close to passing cars at times. Despite his
age, he was faster than me and eventually continued on his own to the next
town. The only places I saw signs for the Amber Trail was when I was leaving
Nowa Huta in Kraków and in Bałtów, a resort by the Vistula River which was well
set up for tourists with a dinosaur theme park one of its main attractions. The
help of local people was invaluable. Without their directions, I would have
wasted a lot of time going the wrong way. Another thing I must mention is the
fact that as I was on my own, I often had to leave my bike unattended while I
was shopping for food. Removing the panniers and carrying them and the tent
with me was too much so this risk was necessary but not once did I have any
problems or have anything stolen.
On The Beaten Track
Arriving into big cities such as
Warsaw, Płock and Toruń were highlights especially the former as this really
created a sense of achievement. The atmosphere was very different and much more
commercial and business-like than in the countryside. Cafes and restaurants
were crowded and there was a great sense of wealth and affluence in the
capital. There were also a lot of tourists in the city taking photographs and
leisurely strolling around especially in Nowy Świat, a busy location not far
from the Old Town. It was strange seeing so many people in one place having
been in the countryside for long periods. Płock and Toruń were similar with the
latter being a place which seemed to be only for tourists. This was easy to
understand given the wonderful architecture in the city.
Safety and Accommodation
Safety was an issue on larger roads
as it is no place for cyclists. The lanes can be very narrow with the sides of
the roads leading into a ditch or loose stones which can’t be cycled upon. I
did take some of the main roads at times because they are obviously more direct
with less chances of getting lost. This did mean taking more risks with one of
the most dangerous parts of the trip, the section of the 757 road to Opatów
that I rode on. The wind generated from passing trucks in the other lane nearly
knocked me off my bike on multiple occasions. On the other hand, the busy 10
road from Lipno to Toruń was surprisingly comfortable. There was space enough
for a cyclist and the road was in very good condition making it one of the
easiest parts of the route. On the first night I asked two locals in a small
village if I could pitch my tent somewhere and was refused and forced to camp
wild. Finding accommodation was difficult
but locals were very helpful when I asked and directed me to places that weren’t
well advertised.
To Sum Up
Toruń was the final stop due to the
fact that I was planning to meet my parents on a certain date. I mainly travelled
on a flat part of the country but passing by villages, towns and cities was a
wonderful experience. Seeing food growing on the land was also something that I
didn’t take for granted as fresh food is something I value greatly in Poland. I
just wish that the route had been better mapped out as it was not so easy to
find my way around especially when I was in some rural areas. It’s a shame
there are not more campsites around as this would have made things a lot
easier. Perhaps there are more campsites than I think but again they are not
well signposted. Next on the Amber Trail for me is the route from Kraków to
Budapest. At least I have a map for this part of the Amber Trail but I’m thinking
about buying a new bike first.
This was written last year and since then I have indeed bought a new bike. More to come on this year's adventure soon.
