This Time Of The Year

I'm a big fan of spring and what has amazed me this year (I hope I don't jinx this) is how quickly temperatures have risen and how rapidly the days have become longer. By longer I mean brighter. It's a really quick change and daylight savings hasn't even kicked in yet.

What do I love about this time of the year? For me there is a sense of renewed optimism, and yes I am very influenced by the weather and by the light. The evenings have possibilities which winter hides away. There is the chance to bike after work, go for a walk and see what's around - basically the evenings have more life in them. I don't feel like I have to get home as quickly as possible and wrap myself up in blankets, secure in the knowledge that I'm protected from the harsh winter.

Life begins again, buds appear on trees and everything doesn't seem quite so grey anymore. The trees may have always been there but without leaves, they have been camouflaged, matching the grey buildings around.

Festivals begin. People want to be outdoors more often in the city instead of escaping to the mountains to ski or remaining indoors at every opportunity.

I can wear less clothing and feel more freedom. I can stretch my arms and not be bound my all the layers of items I am wearing to trap out the cold. My skin can breathe at last.

The biggest thing is the way the whole atmosphere in a city changes. People more visibly smile and seem to have more time for each other. We can see them drinking coffee, beer or whatever on the streets. We can join them or simple sit alone, read a book or people watch.

So this time of the year is a good one for me. I only hope I'm not writing this too soon.

From Bratislava to Vienna

It's been a while since I have taken my steel horse and gone on a journey of any considerable distance which is why last weekend's trip to Vienna was particularly enjoyable but a bit painful. It was a very foggy day, but at least it was calm with no rain.
The logic behind just wearing a long-sleeved t-shirt and a fleece was that I would sweat less. It kind of worked but it meant that when I stopped, I really felt the cold. I'm not used to cycling in such low temperatures and perhaps I was wishfully thinking that it's still summer.

 The hardest part was getting out of Bratislava but once I found the bike route, it was pretty easy to follow. Crossing the border which is so close to Bratislava was a thrill as I imagined how difficult it once used to be to enter into either country. Some of the small towns in Austria along the route are really quite nice and it would have been easy to stop there for a while if I'd had a bit more time.

Hainburg an der Donau is particulary interesting mainly because of the castle perched on a hill. You can't really see it in the picture below because of the thick fog but it's a destination I would like to return to when I have more time.

I think the hardest part mentally was the road through the Donau-Auen National Park. There was a bike path all the way but the fact that it was straight with no interesting curves or turns made it challenging. This is the reason why I ditched this path and went back onto main roads. I was in need of changes in scenery and some twists and turns. Of course I got a bit lost but with the help of some locals I soon got back on track.

My sugar levels dropped radically just before reaching Vienna and I had to binge on some chocolate to get me the rest of the way there. As expected, it took a long time to get from the edge of the city into the centre but it was a pleasant ride with bike paths most of the way. Vienna has an impressive biking infrastructure which I really enjoyed using. Unfortunately Bratislava has a far inferior system but here's hoping that this will change.

To come back I took the train as I was exhausted at the end, satisfied but tired. It's definitely possible to do a return trip in one day but it really would take a lot more energy and a higher fitness level than I currently have to do it.

Next up, (perhaps in the spring) is Budapest once again.

On The Move / Initial Observations

Moving is always tough for me. It amazes me that people can move once a year or even more and not lose their minds. I guess I have mixed feelings about it. I admire and am confused by these people.

It's funny how often people look at me and think I'm one of these travellers who can't stay put in one place for too long. When I tell them it's not true, I usually get the feeling that they are not convinced.

Ireland 22 or so years and Poland for nearly 8 years and that's it. Okay so I have spent at least one month a year in Oxford for the last four years but that has been for work purposes and usually out of necessity.

Now it's Bratislava. It's not so different from Kraków in some ways but very different in others. Initial observations are that there are less small shops and markets to buy fruit and veg than in Kraków. This is a bit disappointing as I feel I am being forced to use Tesco a little too often. The architecture here has more remnants from the communist / socialist past whereas in Kraków, there have been many attempts to remove these traces of history. People are generally friendlier here and are willing to help if they can. In Kraków I often found people to be a mixed bag, sometimes friendly and sometimes they looked and behave as if they hated every human on Earth including themselves.

I'm digressing here though, although my heading has allowed for this. It's strange to move again. I'm starting from the bottom again but this time with experience of what it means to live in a totally different place and know no one. It's still weird and fitting in seems like a big task. I do have to remind myself that I haven't even been here one week and yet in some ways it feels like I've been here much longer.

To Bus or to Train It

There's something romantic about travelling by train, the sound of click, clack as old trains rattle along tracks through villages, towns and countryside that is sometimes not accessible any other way. In Poland recently there has been a surge of new bus companies springing up with really low prices and attractive routes that is putting a struggling train network under more pressure and rightly so.
Despite this, I still opted for the train on a recent trip from Przemysl to Kraków.

An old train took us as far as Rzeszów before it broke down. It was bad news for everyone but particularly for those who had their journey abruptly cut short only half a kilometre or so from the station. We had to wait while the burly driver and conductors ran up and down the train until it was towed back to the station. At least another train was arranged which was more than what happened on an Austrian train I travelled partly on not so long ago. After the train had broken down in the middle of nowhere, we had to wait for about an hour for a bus to come and take us to the nearest u-bahn stop and not the destination on our ticket, the main train station in Vienna.

So, back to the Polish journey. The train I was on was due to terminate in Tarnów but I found out from some Ukrainian travellers that there was a connecting train from there to Kraków. I was even able to buy a ticket from the conductor for the corresponding train and was told that this train would wait for us but we had to be fast.

When the train reached Tarnów, we quickly got out but our train was nowhere to be seen. Had it gone already? No. It arrived fifteen minutes later. This gleaming, modern, smooth train was quite a contrast to the previous two trains of the day. There was even information about the name day of saints on that particular day (very useful to know) and a speedometer which was quite erratic to say the least and turned off possibly due to the embarrassment of the driver as the journey was incredibly slow. At one point the conductor suggested to smokers that they go for a cigarette as we had to wait for three trains to pass by before we could go. The Ukrainians looked as bemused as I felt with the whole train experience and I am sure they were thinking how much better things are in their country regarding train travel.

The train stopped at every stop and the only thing that kept me interested was comparing the numerous modernised stations with the old discarded ones that had been abandoned to the past. Despite the modernisations, it all seemed a false as it would have been a lot faster to take a bus. I hope that PKP (the national train association) will sort it out and stop using the excuse of renovations causing delays as this can only be the case for so long. People tell me that trains used to be better in the past so perhaps all these modernisations are only for show but have no real purpose or perhaps we need to remain patient for better things to come. The fact that PKP provides bus services on some lines suggests otherwise.

A New Idea - A Travel Community Blog

I have had this blog for some time now. In fact, the first post was way back in 2005.  A lot has happened since then and I guess I have recorded some of this in songs, some in stories and some here.

The point of this entry is to let you know that I have set up another blog that has nothing to do with my life, but the lives of others and especially the experiences that other people have had living in a different country.

It's called 'Home Is Where I Write'. I chose the name because I think we have have a number of different homes. Writing is also something that grounds me and gives me a sense of having a home. I can find a home in the words I use or the thoughts I would like to share.

Anyway, here's a link to the blog http://homeiswhereiwrite.wordpress.com/author/homeiswhereiwrite/

The idea is to share the experiences of others who have lived in another country. You can write a song, a poem, a rant, an article, share an anecdote ... the format is up to you.

There's not too much up there now but if you are interested, get in touch.

Biking in Poland from Kraków to Toruń (Summary of experiences from last year's adventure)

On 25th of September last year I finally set out to do something I had been scheming to do all summer while I was cooped up working at a summer school, go biking from Kraków to … Well, the initial aim was to follow the Amber Trail (Bursztynowe Szlak) all the way to Gdańsk but this proved difficult from the outset due to the lack of physical maps available and the shortage of information online. There was a website which promised much at first glance but failed to deliver. When I wrote an email to the contact address asking if there was a map available or more information, I didn’t receive a reply. With the aid of a road map of Poland, I traced out my own version of the route by circling each place of significance on it with the hope that everything would be clearer once I was actually there. I was hoping that there would be signs on the route as there was information on the website that this was the case. Another worry was that I also wasn’t sure if my borrowed bicycle was suitable for such a long trip. It had previously been ridden from Berlin to Kraków by its real owner so this reassured me a little.

Off The Beaten Track

In the past I have visited some Polish cities as well as countryside areas but this trip gave me the chance to really feel the country and in particular explore remote villages that are inaccessible for someone like me who can’t drive a car. What I found interesting is that it was hard to not be around any signs of civilization. Polish villages are usually quite spread out with houses not so close together. It is often hard to see the division between villages as there is often no clear border between them. This is unlike in Ireland where you can travel for a long time without seeing any sign of human activity. Many villages were not very prosperous in appearance with rather grey buildings lining narrow roads. This was not true all the time and some villages were quite well maintained but in general there was not much to make me want to stay in these places. Dogs regularly barked as I passed by with a heavy load, some threatened to add a bite to their bark. There were lots of chickens spread out on both sides of the road or frequently wandering around in drainage ditches. In some villages, there were no roads only dirt tracks but this wasn’t the case very often with some roads perfect for riding on. Seeing cabbage, onions and other food growing in the fields was interesting and gave me one reason to feel tempted to stay and work on the land. The most amazing memory I have of the trip was the route to Kazimerz Dolny through apple paradise with trees heavily laden with apples wherever I went. Further on I took a bike path up a steep hill and saw raspberries and other fruit being harvested in one of the most picturesque places I have seen. There was a strong temptation in me to stay there and ask for a job in return for a place to sleep for the night but I stuck to my cycling plan.

 Locals seemed surprised to see me passing through despite the fact that many lampposts had bike route signs on them but I never felt a sense of danger. One man joined me on a part of my trip. He was full of questions about me and told me he had lived in the U.S. for some time. He was keen to talk but cycled dangerously close to passing cars at times. Despite his age, he was faster than me and eventually continued on his own to the next town. The only places I saw signs for the Amber Trail was when I was leaving Nowa Huta in Kraków and in Bałtów, a resort by the Vistula River which was well set up for tourists with a dinosaur theme park one of its main attractions. The help of local people was invaluable. Without their directions, I would have wasted a lot of time going the wrong way. Another thing I must mention is the fact that as I was on my own, I often had to leave my bike unattended while I was shopping for food. Removing the panniers and carrying them and the tent with me was too much so this risk was necessary but not once did I have any problems or have anything stolen.

On The Beaten Track

Arriving into big cities such as Warsaw, Płock and Toruń were highlights especially the former as this really created a sense of achievement. The atmosphere was very different and much more commercial and business-like than in the countryside. Cafes and restaurants were crowded and there was a great sense of wealth and affluence in the capital. There were also a lot of tourists in the city taking photographs and leisurely strolling around especially in Nowy Świat, a busy location not far from the Old Town. It was strange seeing so many people in one place having been in the countryside for long periods. Płock and Toruń were similar with the latter being a place which seemed to be only for tourists. This was easy to understand given the wonderful architecture in the city.

Safety and Accommodation

Safety was an issue on larger roads as it is no place for cyclists. The lanes can be very narrow with the sides of the roads leading into a ditch or loose stones which can’t be cycled upon. I did take some of the main roads at times because they are obviously more direct with less chances of getting lost. This did mean taking more risks with one of the most dangerous parts of the trip, the section of the 757 road to Opatów that I rode on. The wind generated from passing trucks in the other lane nearly knocked me off my bike on multiple occasions. On the other hand, the busy 10 road from Lipno to Toruń was surprisingly comfortable. There was space enough for a cyclist and the road was in very good condition making it one of the easiest parts of the route. On the first night I asked two locals in a small village if I could pitch my tent somewhere and was refused and forced to camp wild.  Finding accommodation was difficult but locals were very helpful when I asked and directed me to places that weren’t well advertised.

To Sum Up

Toruń was the final stop due to the fact that I was planning to meet my parents on a certain date. I mainly travelled on a flat part of the country but passing by villages, towns and cities was a wonderful experience. Seeing food growing on the land was also something that I didn’t take for granted as fresh food is something I value greatly in Poland. I just wish that the route had been better mapped out as it was not so easy to find my way around especially when I was in some rural areas. It’s a shame there are not more campsites around as this would have made things a lot easier. Perhaps there are more campsites than I think but again they are not well signposted. Next on the Amber Trail for me is the route from Kraków to Budapest. At least I have a map for this part of the Amber Trail but I’m thinking about buying a new bike first.

This was written last year and since then I have indeed bought a new bike. More to come on this year's adventure soon.

The Final Day - Day Eight 1/9/12 From Kraków to Toruń

The hostel was very peaceful when I woke up. My luck had run out regarding the weather. It was the first time it had been really bad but I knew I couldn't stay in Płock as I was running out of time and was eager to get to Toruń, the city of gingerbread and Copernicus. Once again I ate a large meal.  This time it was eggs and beans for breakfast. The rain was not heavy but drizzly and steady. It was a chance to try out my striking red smock. It was not pleasant at all - the weather I mean but I had to keep going.
       I took the 559 road to Lipno. What made cycling hard was the fact that there were grooves in sides of the road where water had lodged. This was slippery and a lot of concentration was needed to not fall off my bike.Wearing the smock also meant that I was very hot underneath it and was wet as a result of this and the rain.
        I was not sure if this was the last day of cycling or not. I still had time before my parents were due to arrive and I knew I could always meet them a bit later in Gdańsk and complete the route I had set out to do. On the other hand, I was tired and the gears on the bike were not behaving themselves. My plan was to get to Toruń and then make a decision.
      The hardest part of the first 50km was from about 9km from Lipno. The rain had eased off by then but the road was in very poor condition making it impossible to build up some speed. I felt my bike was taking a real hammering on the uneven surface and was afraid of something breaking off or of a wheel coming loose. .

Lipno was not very impressive. There were lots of shops and a nice park where I ate some lunch but not much else to see or do. This was the halfway mark of a journey of around 100km. I was tired but determined to get to Toruń. The next stage of the trip was all on done on a busy road - number 10. Despite my previous fears that this would be dangerous to cycle on, it turned out to be the opposite. The road was nice and smooth and there was a hard shoulder where I could ride with enough space separating me from the  other cars. I rode really hard and soon 48km had been reduced to 24km. This inspired me to dig into my energy supplies and keep pushing hard to reach Toruń. The last part took longer than expected as I passed from the 10 to the 80. Every sign I saw, I expected to signal the end but there was still a long way to go. I was tempted to stop and have a break or buy some chocolate but I felt that I was close so I didn't. The way into Toruń was on a really busy road which was definitely not for cyclists. It was very wide but fortunately, I only had to use this road for a short time before I was in the suburbs of Toruń. I felt very satisfied with myself. I had made it on a day which had been quite a challenge.
       My first impressions of the Old Town were striking. The Old Town was full of tourists and it was easy to see why. The architecture was beautiful with a lot to capture my attention. Accommodation first and then time to walk around. I tried one hostel but it was full. At another one, they were also full but they had a second hostel which thankfully had a free bed. I was really tired but satifsied and felt that another two days of cycling was not something I wanted to do. I had made it to Toruń, not to Gdańsk but I was content with that.
       Once I showered, washed and then changed my clothes, I set out to explore the city. It was very pleasant to wander around the cobble-stoned streets searching for and finding interesting things.
Knowing that I didn't have to rush myself was also a pleasant feeling. I didn't have to think about cycling the next day. I was done.

       The trip had been a very fulfilling experience. I had seen a lot of Poland I wouldn't have had the chance to see otherwise. There had been ups and downs as I had anticipated with particular bike problems that I couldn't have planned for. The most memorable part had definitely been the route to Kazimierz. This had really embedded itself into my memory. I thought back to some of the people I'd met - the drunk pervert in Staszów, the cyclist on the way to Żabno and the kind woman in Kazimierz who had helped me get my bike fixed, my friend's mother and aunt who had looked after me in Czerwonka. I was happy to be finished despite having a slight urge to go all the way to Gdańsk by bike. I had ignored most Amber Trail route which I had mapped out because it was too long and it would have been easy to get lost in the forests that the route went through. I had made my own route which sometimes involved taking main roads because they were more direct despite being more unpleasant. My bicycle had caused me some problems with two punctures, chain difficulties and one repair job on the back wheel. My knee felt much better and I felt stronger with the exception of the circulation problems in my little fingers on both hands. I suppose this was from gripping the handlebars tightly for long periods of time. I had learned a lot and knew what I needed to change for the next trip. A new bike would be good, a smaller tent and gloves. Also a speedometer would have been very useful. I don't know when the next trip will be but perhaps I will go south along the Amber Trail from Kraków to Budapest. That's the idea but not until Spring or Summer. Thanks for reading. Hope you enjoyed it.

Day Seven - 31/8/12 From Kraków to Toruń

The great amount of cycling I did the day before made for stiff muscles on day 7. I ate two bars of chocolate before two o'clock which says something about the condition I was in and the desire to gain energy from somewhere. The road leading out of Leszno was a mess but instead of taking the diversion, I decided to be stubborn and go through the roadworks as I was afraid of getting lost. They went on for longer than I thought and made for slow progress with strange looks coming at me from the construction workers.
            Once I got past that, I managed to gather some momentum and speed. The route was pleasant enough and all was going well but then I felt that funny sensation in the back wheel and realised I had another puncture. The wheel was not completely flat but was definitely soft. I stopped at a shop and asked the lady working there for a bucket of water to help me find the problem. She was very friendly and duly obliged. Fixing the tube again was surprisingly not so difficult but put the fear into me that this was going to happen again in the future. So many problems with the bike and all this after having it serviced before setting off. I had been worried a little about getting punctures and had thought about replacing the tyres but it was too late now. I was just hoping I could get to Toruń without any more mishaps. 
           My aim for the day was not so clear. It was a case of just trying to see how far I could go. 
More roadworks in a town called Chodaków and more dust and noise. I had to backtrack a little here after taking a wrong turn and then it took me some time to find the bridge to Żuków. I think the mayhem of the roadworks was the cause of missing the correct turn left. 
Once I got across the River Bzura, I took the 577 all the way to the bigger main road called 60. One of the funniest place names I saw on the way was a town called Gąbin. According to the Oxford online dictionary a gombeen man is a person who is:

'involved in the lending of money at unreasonably high rates'

but in Ireland this word is used to describe someone who is basically an idiot.

      My strangest encounter in a rural area full of fields of cabbage and onions was with an old man on a bike who was wearing a hat. When I asked him for directions he looked at me with his mouth slightly open displaying his full selection of teeth which amounted to about five in total but he remained mute. I asked again but nothing changed in his blank expression so not knowing what to do, I thanked him and moved on. I rode fast and eventually made it to Płock but crossing Solidarity Bridge (Most Solidarności) was terrifying. I had to get off the busy road and lift my bike over the metal barrier and onto the footpath. It was far too dangerous for a cyclist to ride among the vehicles big and small that were roaring past.
       Fortunately in Płock I found a hostel without much difficulty. It was a bit expensive but very clean and well-equipped especially the kitchen. I took advantage of this by making a massive meal of pasta with fried onions, tomatoes and beans. It was a meal for two or three people but I devoured it on my own.
      Płock has some nice architecture and its lofted position over the River Vistula is attractive but there was not so much to see and do there. In the square in the Old Town there was a concert stage set up with some bands playing but the drizzly weather was unpleasant. I wandered around a little contemplating what to do but the gangs of males prowling the streets encouraged me to return to the hostel. Despite being a four-bed dorm, I had it all to myself. I fell asleep watching Polish TV, woke up not knowing where I was and then struggled to the bathroom in a haze to clean my teeth before hitting the hay for real.

     

              
         

Day Six 30/8/12 From Kraków to Toruń

Eggs for breakfast and too many were not enough. I don’t know how many I had but it was a lot. I felt well-fed, well-rested and ready to cycle the short distance to Warka and then to Warsaw. Before I left, I was also given a packed lunch for the journey by my friend’s mother. There was nothing else I could have asked for. Great hospitality and care.

          From Czerwonka, I took the 730 to Warka and then the 731 which later joined the 79. Góra Kalwaria is obviously a busy interection for lorry drivers as I have never seen so many lorries in one area. I felt tiny on my little bike in contrast to these metal, dirt spewing giants. The roundabout before the town was so crowded with them that I couldn’t wait to get away from there. I kept moving and took the less busy 724 which lead to Warsaw and this was where I felt something was wrong with the bike. I looked down to check what it was and saw that my back tyre was flat. This is always a risk but not something I had expected to have to deal with. There was a repair kit in my bag but my previous attempts to repair punctures have nearly always ended up with lots of frustration involving struggles to get the tryres off and on. I remember one occasion when I managed this but then somehow made another hole in the tube when putting the tyre back on.

There was no time to waste. I had to do something. There were some houses nearby so I approached one and opened the gate. As usual there was a dog there who made sure he was heard. The owner appeared and I explained the problem. He gave me the bucket I requested and let me get on with things. Surprisingly, fixing the puncture was relatively easy and it was not long before I was back on the road again feeling very proud and grateful for the help which came at the end when he helped me to wash the oil from my hands.

My pace picked up again and remained quite fast until I reached the outskirts of Warsaw. This was a proud moment and a photo moment. From Kraków to Warsaw felt good. It really felt like I had achieved something even though getting to the centre of the capital still took some time. The traffic was pretty heavy but I kept going at a fast pace until I reached sights that were familiar to me.

Time for lunch in Łazienkowski Park, a relaxing place to stop and a welcome break from the noisy traffic from earlier. The only thing was that now that I was in Warsaw, I wasn’t sure whether to stay or not. It was tempting. After eating all of my food supplies, disasater struck again, the chain came off my bike, not once but twice. I was really getting fed up with bike problems and felt like abandoning it in a ditch but couldn’t bring myself to do it even though my patience was really being tested.

After a bit more exploring in Warsaw that involved briefly going into the Old Town and then Old Praga, I decided to leave. Łomianki was next on my map but it turned out to be a mistake. By the Wisła there was a path but this turned into a dirt path that was too sandy at parts to manage so I had to dismount and walk. When I finally got back onto concrete again, a local woman helped me to get to Łomianki but then I was faced by a forest which scared me as it looked easy to get lost there. Nervously I ventured in feeling that there was no choice. I rode for a bit before deciding what to do. I didn’t want to take  the busy E77 or the forest so I backtracked and took the road to a place called Stary Babice and then rode past village after village in a daze. It was slowly starting to get dark and there was no sign of any accommodation anywhere so I kept pedaling as if trying to escaping the darkness creeping up behind me. This continued until I got to Leszno and that was when I asked a local if there was any accommodation in this town and was so happy when she gave me some good news.

Cycling past the forest to my right, I was so happy not to have to resort to camping wild once again. The sound of insects was a sure sign of being bitten multiple times during the night had I slept in a tent. The hotel that was recommended was not bad at all. The price for a room was really low at only 36PLN, without a TV I must add (it was 48PLN for a room with a  TV). The room was clean and very modern as was the hotel. What a surprise in such a quiet area called Julinek. Dinner back in Leszno and then a really scary cycle back in the dark before bed after a testing day.

From Kraków to Toruń - Day Five 29/8/12

I woke up with the plan to get to a village near Warka to meet friends who had also been on a biking trip in the east of Poland and were nearing the end of their adventure. I will keep the anonymous here for legal reasons. The intial aim had been to get there on day four but I had been over optimistic and unrealistic about this as it is about 85km from Kazimierz Dolny to Warka.

          In my charming wooden room I felt better but still tired but resisted the temptation to have a lazy morning and leave later in the day. Knowing that my bike was back to good working order also gave me the encouragement needed to force myself to pack up and leave. Since being a child I have always hated riding my bike when something is wrong with it. I used to spend so much time trying to fix things and often made them worse by not having either the tools or the skills with which to do it. Nowadays I am willing to humbly pay someone to do it especially if they are genuine and trustworthy which I don't always find bike mechanics to be.

          Once packed, I bid the owner of the house a fond farewell as she had been very helpful by not only getting my bike fixed but also by making me feel very much at home. If I come back to Kazimierz, I will definitely stay there again.   From Kazimierz to Puławy I cycled at a good pace, not too fast but steady, and got there pretty quickly. Once again I crossed the Wisła, this time by bridge and stuck to the main road, the 738 and later the 48 all the way to Kozienice. I really felt pleased to be making a lot of ground with my knee behaving itself better than before and my bike reveling in the speed I was pushing it to do. Taking the main roads also made the journey easier despite things getting a bit hairy at times. Keeping concentration was the most challenging part as lapses caused me to veer off the road on more than one occasion into the gravel or stones that lined the road. I didn't injure myself or fall but it meant breaking the rhythm I had built up.

          A phone call from my friend gave me the energy to really push myself to get there before they left. Her mother was willing to feed me and put me up for the night in her place in a small village called Czerwonka, not far from Warka. There was still the slight chance I could make it to this village before my friends had to leave. It was unrealistic but I made myself believe it was possible in order to maintain the pace I was keeping. Knowing there was a place for me to stay was another motivating factor.

          I pushed hard and got to Głowaczów and then took the 730 which was a pretty good road. The cars on both sides which raced past made me pedal faster. I found myself in a good rhythm with my legs feeling stronger than before.

          When I arrived at the village my friends had just left but I was warmly greeted by my friend's mother and aunt. I had a wonderful shower and was fed with a delicious meal. It was a chance to enjoy the comforts of a nice home – the luxuries of civilisation which I must confess I really missed. It sounds great taking a tent and going into the wild, and I love this idea, but when it actually happens I find myself craving a good bathroom, a proper bed and all the modern comforts that I have at home. 

          After eating, I slept, woke up, ate again and chatted with my friend's mother and aunt for a while. Having a long conversation was an activity which had not happened since leaving Krakow. It was nice to share my thoughts out loud with someone else. I had started talking to myself a little while cycling, a sure sign of the need for a conversation and perhaps the beginning of a mental breakdown. After drinking some wonderful homemade cherry vodka (wiśniowka) it was easy to fall asleep early satisfied with the position I was in.
         Time was starting to run out so I knew I would have to do more of the same over the next few days if I was to make it to Toruń. By more of the same I don't mean eating and sleeping but giving my body the rest and energy it required to stay strong and energetic in order to reach my final target.

From Kraków to Toruń - Day Four 28/8/12

The rest worked a little but my body was aching and in need of a lot more of the same. Attempts to fix my bike seemed to work initially but then the same strange feeling kept coming from the back wheel each time I pedalled. I was moving but something was not right and my fear was that it would get worse the further I went. My spirits were quite low and dropped lower when I discovered I was going the wrong way and had to turn back. They dropped even lower when I missed the ferry crossing at Kludzie because I hadn’t realised that the the object I saw in the water was the only ferry across the Wisła. It also didn't help that when I asked someone who was on it, they didn't really help in any way.

          I set myself a much less ambitious aim for the day, to get to Kazimierz Dolny which was not so far away. The route on the other side of the Wisła was very pleasant with orchard upon orchard lining the pretty, smooth road I cycled along. There was no heavy traffic, not much wind and no problems in making good speed towards Kazimierz. There was just the problem with the back wheel which was getting a little worse the more I traveled. At least I knew Kazimierz having been there before and was looking forward to returning.

          Soon I was only 12km away. I decided to follow one of the blue bike signs which led me up a massive hill which I had to walk up. At the top I was rewarded with a wonderful view of the surrounding countryside. People were working the land harvesting raspberries and more apples. This area really lifted my spirits and made all earlier frustration disappear. It was really something special and I was very tempted to ask for a job and stay for a couple of nights. Fruit-picking is something I have always wanted to do during the summer but have never gotten around to it yet.
Going down to the next village was tricky as the path was very uneven and once I got to the next road I decided to follow this to Kazimierz rather than the bike path sign which seemed to led off onto another dirt track.

          When I finally saw the sign which signalled the end of the day’s traveling, I felt relieved to have made it. My knee was still sore and the bike's condition had deteriorated even further with slipping gears another problem. Finding affordable accommodation was not easy with prices quite high but a little outside the town I found a great place to stay in an old wooden house that was run by two women, one who was particularly friendly and helpful.

          When I explained her the difficulties I was having with my bike, she told me to follow her. She drove slowly back into town and I kept up with her on my bike. She brought me to the only bike mechanic in the town who fixed the back wheel there and then and only charged me 5PLN for the work and 15PLN for replacing the damaged part on the back wheel. It was a lot less than the 215PLN fee I paid for the bike to be serviced in Krakow. With a fully functioning bike once more and a comfortable place to stay, I felt elated. 

          Kazimierz is a town famous for the artists that live there and the charming architecture. It is also located near the Wisła with wonderful views especially the one I saw as I walked around the town as the sun was setting. At night, I didn't do too much. After getting some food, I went for a coffee and returned early enough to my accomodation feeling more optimistic about the following day.

From Kraków to Toruń - Day 3 27/8/12

Despite the itching from mosquito bites, I slept quite well and felt ready to make up for the lack of kilometres the day before. There had been a lot of rain during the night so the tent was quite wet but only on the outside. Thankfully, it was dry when I was packing everything up. As usual I started off at a slow pace to loosen up my leg muscles. My right knee was a bit sore which was a worry especially so early on into the trip. From Staszów I took the 757 to Borogia and then went through some smaller villages to get to Ujazd. Here I stopped to have a look at the impressive ruins of a castle dating from the 17^th century. From Ujazd I starting having problems due to the fact that I didn’t want to travel on main roads but this brought other difficulties. It was easy to get lost.

          I went to Toporów which lead me onto a tricky dirt track to Mydłów. With such heavy luggage on the back of my bike, it was difficult to manage my wheels on the stony path but eventually I made it. Getting to Opatów involved getting lost many times with one local particularly unhelpful. He told me I was going the right way but the dirt track I was following onto lead to a dead end at a large field which there was no path through.

          Frustration forced me onto a main road again as I was tired of getting lost. The wind was also making it difficult to feel like I was making much progress. The E371 which was not pleasant for a cyclist. The large articulated lorries which passed me by on the other lane nearly knocked my off my bike as the wind they generated hit me hard. I rode as fast as I could to get off this road as fear propelled me forwards urging my legs to push harder to get to Opatów. It was a relief to get there and I found the city to be quite pleasant with a nice square in the Old Town. Being back in a city gave me the opportunity to stuff myself with food which is what I did. It was just a shame that the spinach soup had sausage bits in it which I had to avoid being a vegetarian.

          Just like the day before, I reached a point where my legs struggled to keep going. Reaching Kazimierz Dolny was looking a bit ambitious. The wind hadn't abated and seemed to be against me all the way as I took minor roads to Ćmielów. There were some steep hills to climb but also respite as I was able to freewheel from some big heights as well. One interesting place I passed through was Małoszyce, the birthplace of the famous Polish writer Witold Gombrowicz.
         Finding the way was not as hard as earlier and soon I was on a lovely road which cut through a forest and took me to Kościelna Ruda. This was where things got really hard again and I had to force all my weight and strength against the wind. At times it was really was a test of endurance and the thought of giving up crossed my mind more than once. The fear of being stuck in the middle of nowhere spurred me on and once I got on the 754 to Bałtów, it suddenly became easier to ride once again.

          My speed really picked up as all the earlier frustration was unleashed through my legs. Even my sore knee didn’t bother me as much. Kazimierz was too far to get to but Solec nad Wisłą soon became more possible as I ate up the kilometers. I had thought about stopping at Bałtów as it looked nice and there was actually some information about the Amber Trail there but my body felt full of adrenalin so I pushed myself to go the extra 20 something kilometers and finally made it to Solec. I was changing gears to climb a really steep hill when the chain came off. Another challenge to my wits. Getting it back on was not easy but I managed and then noticed that the back wheel was not going round as smoothly as before. Something was wrong with it but I was not sure what. As it was starting to get dark, I figured I would find a place to stay first and worry about the bike later. With the help of locals I found a room in a holiday resort centre that was cheap and quiet.

          I had done about 9 hours of cycling and was absolutely exhausted to the point of feeling I was hallucinating as I sat down on the bed and had a couple of beers to relax myself. It had been a tough day with the wind being the biggest opponent against me. It was so good to not have to sleep in a tent and to have a proper shower after a long day.

From Kraków to Toruń - Day Two 26/8/12

No need to worry. That’s what I kept telling myself but yet every little sound was a threat to my nerves. I felt my body stiffen with breaths coming in short gasps as the sounds of life in the forest kept me in a state of great fear. My body was stiff, my nerves ruined. I longed for daylight and the chance to pack up and go.

          When it came, I did just that, the only problem was the going part. I couldn’t remember which way I had entered the forest. I tried a number of ways but to no avail and decided it would easier to do it without the bike. I did find the way but then couldn’t find the bike. I backtracked and searched for at least one hour with my legs getting scratched and stung in the process until I finally found it. Back on the road again, I felt exhausted and dizzy from the lack of sleep and stress. I was also itching like crazy from the mosquito bites I had received despite spraying myself with repellent. Weather wise, it was sunny but windy which made progress that bit slower.

          Again, I wasn’t sure how far I was going to go. Without a speedometer it was difficult to gauge what was possible. The 973 road was pleasant enough, most importantly, it was quiet. My first aim was to get to Nowy Korczyn. Along the way I passed some villages and made a detour to see a village called Zalipie which had some interesting painted wooden houses. Other than that, there was not so much to report on except typical villages with lots of chickens and many barking dogs that made a racket as I passed by.

To get across the Wisła, it was necessary to take a ferry which was maneuvered across the wide river by means of a cable. The wind was quite strong at this stage and the thought of getting blown away down the Wisła was not so unrealistic. It was a relief to be on the other side and to be on the move again. I avoided the main road as much as possible passing by villages such as Pawłów, Brzostków and others until I got as far and Rataje Słupskie and was forced to take the busy 73 as far as Pacanów and then I got off it again and once more traveled along much quieter roads through the Polish countryside.

          When I reached Staszów, my body was really drained of energy. I just couldn’t go any further. Fighting the wind had really been hard and it was time to rest even though I wasn’t satisfied with the distance I had done. Camping wild was not something I wanted to repeat so I looked around for accommodation but there was none to be seen, at least with my eyes. I was looking at a map which showed a campsite when a drunken old man asked me what I was looking for. I told him and he said he would help me. He wanted to take a taxi with me to Golejów where the campsite was located but I refused as it didn’t seem so far away. He said he would walk with me and show me how to reach the campsite. He wasn't the most desirable company but it seemed wrong to turn down the offer of help. Understanding him was not easy as his speech was slurred from too much booze. We continued walking with me trying to reply to his questions but then I felt his hand touch off my groin. I thought perhaps it was an accident given his state but then it happened again and he shockingly asked me without any shame if I wanted a blowjob. I couldn't really believe my ears but he repeated his offer with an expressoin of sincerity on his face. I politely declined and then had to insist on going the rest of the way myself. He was not happy with this at first and tried his luck unsuccessfully to get more money from me. Fortunately, there were no more offers of other sexual favours and there was no struggle to get away from him.

The campsite was located next to a lake. It was cold at this stage and the weather had changed so I was happy to have a place to stay to rest and recover. The facilities were nothing special, neither were the food options on offer. I had to settle for a bowl of soup and a toasted cheese baguette (zapiekanka). I was really hungry and knew that I had to look after my diet more if I was to complete the trip. Sleeping in a tent meant an early night as it was dark before 9 o’clock. The only other people on the campsite was a Polish family that made up for the lack of other people by making a lot of noise by shouting and swearing as they got drunk not so far away from my tent. At least there was less of a risk of being attacked by wild animals during the night. The scratching of bites was difficult to resist as I found it impossible to ignore the waves of itchiness that came upon me.

From Kraków to Toruń by Bicycle - Nearly Along The Amber Trail

For the next 8 Mondays I am going to post entries for each of the eight days of my biking trip that was supposed to be from Kraków to Gdańsk along the Amber Trail (Szlak Bursztynowy) but ended up being from Kraków to Toruń. It was a journey with many moments of happiness and also other times when I found myself questioning why I was doing it. One thing came from it is that I got to see many parts of Poland I had never seen before and experienced a hell of a lot in a very short space of time. I got to spend a lot of time passing through the beautiful Polish countryside but also had to try to survive on busy roads where I was greatly in fear for my safety.
The above picture was actually taken in the Dublin / Wicklow mountains in Ireland when I was doing a small bit of training before the trip. One hour long cycle was not really enough to prepare me for what lay ahead.

Moan For Today

Having had a problem for some time with what I consider to be my 'Black Speed Demon' - not to be mistaken with my 'Black Beauty' - I decided to try to get if fixed. The problem was with the pedal which was loose and in danger of coming off. After a lot of careful consideration I figured that the risk of becoming a road decoration was too high so I finally resolved to do something about it.

The first shop I entered was full of happy helping people who even held open the door for me as I struggled inside with my injured steel horse. Upon further inquiry I was informed that she would be restored to her former glory and ready to be ridden again in no time once for the modest cost of 110zl including a new basket as the old was was broken like an exposed blade.
'Pan mozna zostawic rower ale przyjechadz znowu w Poniedzialek' ('Sir may leave behind his bicycle or return again on Monday') I was informed because the piece I needed was not yet available but there was no need to fret their warm smiles told me and after again having the door held open for me, the day seemed so much brighter than before bringing a smile to my own face.

Cruising home in no great rush I decided to check the competition and to see if they were as charming. The door was not held open for me which was a bad start and gave them a minus rating. There were no smiles but the gruff man took the bike and got to work straight away which was something that hadn't happened earlier - interesting. I waited patiently while he worked away and, prosze bardzo - it was fixed. How much? 10zl.

I felt so happy that I also decided to buy a back light and a new basket. Riding on my wheels in her full beauty, I couldn't believe how close I had been to being ripped off until I got home and realised that after the short journey I had the same problem again. At least I have a new basket and light I suppose.

Captured in Flight

http://www.krakowcyclechic.com/2009/04/kwietniowi-rowerzysci.html

I unsuspectingly found out that I was captured on a website for bikes. I knew nothing about it but I like the photo. It was the day I saw a bike rally in the Market Square but I was going the other way having work commitments to attend to. It was strange to hear about it but I suppose it is hard to ride a bike in private these days. The comments I have received on it have been nice though.