Cycling in Morava

I didn't know anything about the region of Morava (Moravia in English) but was pleasantly surprised by the great number of castles and interesting small towns that are there. I was also impressed by the biking infrastructure that exists there, not only the bike paths but the restaurants and camp sites built next to the bike routes.

Starting from Skalica in Slovakia, we rode as far as Petrov. We were very unprepared without a map or a plan at all. Skalica is a very nice town but unfortunately we never got to try the famous pastry "Trdelnik" as we arrived a bit too late.
We rode until we reached the Bat'a Canal which was built by the famous shoemaker Tomáš Bat'a, hence the name. It connects some of the towns in this region and was built when water transport was the most effective form.  For about one euro we camped in Petrov and managed to get a map of the region.

 The next day we set out on a trail alongside the canal and passed through some attractive towns such as Strážnice and Veseli nad Moravou. The curiously named Stare Mesto was quite disappointing in comparison with the other towns. In Uherský Ostroh we just had a quick stop to have an embarrassing picture taken of ourselves which you can see below.

We managed to find a place to camp at Spytihnév for free. It was ideal as there was a pit stop for cyclists with a restaurant and a bar. There were also paid toilets and shower facilities which was heaven after such a hot and sweaty day. The worst thing for me was using sun cream on my freckled Irish skin to prevent sunburn. Either I use it and don't get burned but have to feel all that slime on my skin or I fry. I chose the former option.

In Napajedla there is quite a nice castle worth visiting. We had a tour guide in Czech with Yulia translating for me. It was a bit short but there were some interesting things to see. Kroměříž is a city I could definitely return to. Architecturally there is a lot to see. Unfortunately we didn't have too much time. We had Yulia's bike stand replaced in a bike shop. The guys there also pumped up my wheels and fixed my speedometer for no extra charge. After that I ate fried cheese once more. In a total of six days of traveling I ate fried cheese 4 days and the other two days we cooked our own food using our small gas stove. The vegetarian options are pretty limited so I'd recommend cooking your own food if you are of the veggie only kind.

 We'd heard a lot about Zliň, the home of Tomáš Bat'a's famous shoe company but we were very disappointed when we finally made it there. It took us such a long time to reach it as the bike route was much longer than the road for cars and meant we had to do a loop before we reached the city. We didn't find anything interesting there, except for an industrial city so we took a train back to Otrokovice and spend another night at the free campsite in Spytihnév.

The next day we had to go back all along the route we had just travelled upon in order to get to the south of Morava. Hodonin was our aim and we reached the outskirts of it in the evening. It was another hot day and the chance to cool down in the evening was very welcome. We stayed in a very interesting campsite which was all for ourselves and contained fruit trees and wigwams. The nearby bar was interesting with their own brewed beer. Polotmavý or half-dark beer is amazing in Czech.

Onwards to Lednice via Hodonin and Břeclav. Lednice is quite a touristy spot but it's easy to see why. The impressive castle and massive garden surrounding it is well worth visiting and we could easily have spent a day there. Instead we only had the evening as it took us some time to reach the city and the campsite. This was previously owned by the Liechtenstein family who were forced out of the region in World War II and then set up their own country which exists today. In the evening we were treated to a folk festival with musicians not only from Czech but also from Hungary, Slovakia and Poland.

Mikulov is only ten kilometres or so from Lednice and boasts equally impressive history and architecture. As this is a rich wine producing region, there is even a museum in the castle dedicated to this. The wine barrel in the picture to the right dates from 1643 and has a capacity of 101,400 litres.

After Mikulov we went to Valtice but the road there was horribly busy and not for biking at all. I don't know if we took a wrong turn but I was just so happy to get off the main road. This castle is equally impressive even though it is not as clean or as well restored as a lot of other castles in the region. We spent the last night enjoying a good bottle of red wine in the campsite before crashing in the tent.

One more thing we saw on the way home was this castle in the picture below - Januv Hrad. It was not open so we just took a walk around it before heading back to Břeclav and the train back to Bratislava via Kutý. 6 days was just about enough time to see a lot in this region. We were very lucky with sunny weather every day and no accidents on the bikes. There's lots of culture and interesting sites to visit and by bike I always feel you get to see a bit more.

 

Selfies - Everyone Is At It

What is the big fascination with 'selfies'? It is hardly a new idea yet for some reason it has become very popular since the widespread use of the smart phone. In the past taking a photo of yourself would have been deemed an act of vanity or necessity if there was no one else to take your photo at an interesting sight. Recently it seems that it doesn't matter if someone else can take your photo or not. What's important is the ability to capture yourself and perhaps others in a photo taken by yourself. What is fascinating is that this is considered cool. Why is this the case? How can something so self-absorbing not be frowned upon and ridiculed?

It seems that even animals are getting in on the act. Recently I even heard of a story of a black macaque monkey who took selfies of himself.This cheeky monkey began snapping away after snatching the camera from photographer David Slater. The website Wikimedia has since published some of these photos stating that they belong in the public domain as the monkey took these photos and not the photographer. These photos have since gone viral making this particular monkey more famous than he realises.


If even monkeys are at it, what hope is left to end this vain act of self-photography?

Link to video about the monkey selfie.

Biking in Poland from Kraków to Toruń (Summary of experiences from last year's adventure)

On 25th of September last year I finally set out to do something I had been scheming to do all summer while I was cooped up working at a summer school, go biking from Kraków to … Well, the initial aim was to follow the Amber Trail (Bursztynowe Szlak) all the way to Gdańsk but this proved difficult from the outset due to the lack of physical maps available and the shortage of information online. There was a website which promised much at first glance but failed to deliver. When I wrote an email to the contact address asking if there was a map available or more information, I didn’t receive a reply. With the aid of a road map of Poland, I traced out my own version of the route by circling each place of significance on it with the hope that everything would be clearer once I was actually there. I was hoping that there would be signs on the route as there was information on the website that this was the case. Another worry was that I also wasn’t sure if my borrowed bicycle was suitable for such a long trip. It had previously been ridden from Berlin to Kraków by its real owner so this reassured me a little.

Off The Beaten Track

In the past I have visited some Polish cities as well as countryside areas but this trip gave me the chance to really feel the country and in particular explore remote villages that are inaccessible for someone like me who can’t drive a car. What I found interesting is that it was hard to not be around any signs of civilization. Polish villages are usually quite spread out with houses not so close together. It is often hard to see the division between villages as there is often no clear border between them. This is unlike in Ireland where you can travel for a long time without seeing any sign of human activity. Many villages were not very prosperous in appearance with rather grey buildings lining narrow roads. This was not true all the time and some villages were quite well maintained but in general there was not much to make me want to stay in these places. Dogs regularly barked as I passed by with a heavy load, some threatened to add a bite to their bark. There were lots of chickens spread out on both sides of the road or frequently wandering around in drainage ditches. In some villages, there were no roads only dirt tracks but this wasn’t the case very often with some roads perfect for riding on. Seeing cabbage, onions and other food growing in the fields was interesting and gave me one reason to feel tempted to stay and work on the land. The most amazing memory I have of the trip was the route to Kazimerz Dolny through apple paradise with trees heavily laden with apples wherever I went. Further on I took a bike path up a steep hill and saw raspberries and other fruit being harvested in one of the most picturesque places I have seen. There was a strong temptation in me to stay there and ask for a job in return for a place to sleep for the night but I stuck to my cycling plan.

 Locals seemed surprised to see me passing through despite the fact that many lampposts had bike route signs on them but I never felt a sense of danger. One man joined me on a part of my trip. He was full of questions about me and told me he had lived in the U.S. for some time. He was keen to talk but cycled dangerously close to passing cars at times. Despite his age, he was faster than me and eventually continued on his own to the next town. The only places I saw signs for the Amber Trail was when I was leaving Nowa Huta in Kraków and in Bałtów, a resort by the Vistula River which was well set up for tourists with a dinosaur theme park one of its main attractions. The help of local people was invaluable. Without their directions, I would have wasted a lot of time going the wrong way. Another thing I must mention is the fact that as I was on my own, I often had to leave my bike unattended while I was shopping for food. Removing the panniers and carrying them and the tent with me was too much so this risk was necessary but not once did I have any problems or have anything stolen.

On The Beaten Track

Arriving into big cities such as Warsaw, Płock and Toruń were highlights especially the former as this really created a sense of achievement. The atmosphere was very different and much more commercial and business-like than in the countryside. Cafes and restaurants were crowded and there was a great sense of wealth and affluence in the capital. There were also a lot of tourists in the city taking photographs and leisurely strolling around especially in Nowy Świat, a busy location not far from the Old Town. It was strange seeing so many people in one place having been in the countryside for long periods. Płock and Toruń were similar with the latter being a place which seemed to be only for tourists. This was easy to understand given the wonderful architecture in the city.

Safety and Accommodation

Safety was an issue on larger roads as it is no place for cyclists. The lanes can be very narrow with the sides of the roads leading into a ditch or loose stones which can’t be cycled upon. I did take some of the main roads at times because they are obviously more direct with less chances of getting lost. This did mean taking more risks with one of the most dangerous parts of the trip, the section of the 757 road to Opatów that I rode on. The wind generated from passing trucks in the other lane nearly knocked me off my bike on multiple occasions. On the other hand, the busy 10 road from Lipno to Toruń was surprisingly comfortable. There was space enough for a cyclist and the road was in very good condition making it one of the easiest parts of the route. On the first night I asked two locals in a small village if I could pitch my tent somewhere and was refused and forced to camp wild.  Finding accommodation was difficult but locals were very helpful when I asked and directed me to places that weren’t well advertised.

To Sum Up

Toruń was the final stop due to the fact that I was planning to meet my parents on a certain date. I mainly travelled on a flat part of the country but passing by villages, towns and cities was a wonderful experience. Seeing food growing on the land was also something that I didn’t take for granted as fresh food is something I value greatly in Poland. I just wish that the route had been better mapped out as it was not so easy to find my way around especially when I was in some rural areas. It’s a shame there are not more campsites around as this would have made things a lot easier. Perhaps there are more campsites than I think but again they are not well signposted. Next on the Amber Trail for me is the route from Kraków to Budapest. At least I have a map for this part of the Amber Trail but I’m thinking about buying a new bike first.

This was written last year and since then I have indeed bought a new bike. More to come on this year's adventure soon.

An Expensive Something To Laugh About

I am questioning the logic of writing this post but there are times when I can't take myself seriously and am glad that I have a good enough sense of humour to laugh at my own expense.

So ... here it goes. I arrived home from England last Monday. Leaving at 2 in the morning to get a flight at 8:30 was not a pleasant journey. By the time I got back to the intense heat in Krakow, all I was fit for, was sleep.

With a flight due the next night, I decided to catch up with some friends in the evening, which was probably not the greatest idea since I was till suffering from a cold, but still it was nice to catch up.

The next day was a day of preparation for my flight to Georgia - a non-event of a day as these days tend to be. It was a case of patiently waiting until it was time to leave. I got out to the airport with plenty of time to spare and contemplated on how best to pass the four hours until the flight was due. Reading, eating, coffee, reading, juice and more reading seemed to work.

I had a look up at the information board just out of curiosity and that's when everything went wrong. I examined it extremely carefully but my flight was not there. I checked the ticket and the date and everything seemed fine - 30th of July but then I realised why it was not on the electronic board, the date was correct but the plane had already left at 00:50 earlier that morning.

This is not the first time something like this has happened to me. I have waited at an airport one day earlier to welcome my cousin, I have confused 6 am with 6 pm while getting a ferry from Dublin to Wales, I once bought 5 train tickets for our group of 4 and I have also booked flights to the wrong airport.

So what did I do? I contemplated getting another flight to anywhere but then decided to retreat back to Krakow. I took a bus to the train station in Katowice and thought again about going somewhere different. The shame of returning to Krakow seemed too great. Wrocław, Warsaw - these were two cities that came to mind but then I decided that it was best to return to the city I had started from and regroup.

All the buses had gone and the queue was enormous. I'm guessing they were in line to get tickets for  a festival as they looked like the type with range of quirky styles from punk to a hippy look that seemed out of place in the modern train station in Katowice. When I finally reached the top of the queue, I bought a ticket for the next train to Krakow, which was due in over 5 hours. Patience was needed once more. I amused myself by reading again and going to an Internet cafe to book another flight for later in the week. There was one option to fly from Warsaw to Georgia the next day but I chose the later one from Krakow, which was half the price.

Patience was the quality, which was once again put to the test on the train journey home. I slept for most of it thankfully.

So I am still going to Georgia but will have to be patient once more. As for these mistakes that prove to be very costly, I feel a bit resigned to the fact that I will make them again but at least they give me a reason to write.

Book Review - Buy This Land by Chi-Dooh Li

The title of this book, 'Buy This Land', is quite a simple yet fitting introduction to the inspiring story of Chi-Dooh Li (nicknamed 'Skip'). It immediately brought to mind the song by Woody Guthrie  'This Land is Your Land' and after just finishing reading the book, I have discovered that this initial association has proved to be an apt one.

Skip was born in India, moved to China but left with his family when the Chinese Communist Revolution began and followed his father who took up various diplomatic posts in Asia, Australia and South America.  By the time he moved to the U.S.A. he was already very well-travelled and could speak Mandarin Chinese, Spanish and English. With such a mix of experiences behind him it was obviously difficult for him to answer the question by a Pan American Airways agent who asks him 'What are you, really?', which is referred to in the introduction to the book.

Despite helping Chinese Cambodian refugees gain asylum to the United States, it was being present at a sermon delivered by Juan Carlos that was to really change his life and lay the foundations for the new way of thinking that Skip was to base his thoughts on, which was to radically change his life and the lives of others.

From this moment on, he dedicated himself to aiding those living in impoverished conditions by setting up Agros. The concept of Agros is a simple but powerful one - help farmers to buy and use land effectively in order to encourage self-suffiency. From their troubled beginnings in Guatemala, Agros has since helped establish 42 villages in five different countries and has helped over 24,000 people. What is interesting is that Agros doesn't give handouts but gives people the means and encouragement to work towards a better future and to literally reap the rewards from their hard work and belief. They do so by purchasing land directly from landowners and then offer it back to impoverished families at rates that are realistic for those who have very little.

What made this book a very enjoyable and humbling read is not only the fact the Skip's story is a fascinating one. He does not boast about his achievements or attempt to glorify himself in any way. There is immense gratitude on the part of the author towards his wife and all those who have helped him. Another refreshing element I experienced in the reading of the book is that the organisation does not discriminate against those with different religious beliefs unlike some aid organisations. The fact that he is a religious man and there are many biblical references in the book does not lead to preaching to the reader or any recipients of aid in any way. He simply gives examples of the the way in which his faith helps to inspire him to help others who have less.

The most inspiring thing about this book is that, despite admitting that he had led a comfortable life practicing law, he decided to use his position and knowledge to help other people less fortunate than him. What is very pleasing to know is that the end of the book clearly states that his work with helping poverty-stricken landless people is far from finished and his belief that 'this land was made for you and me' is as strong as ever.


http://www.buythislandbook.com/
http://www.woodyguthrie.org/Lyrics/This_Land.htm

Time to Settle Down or Not?

I chanced upon a blog entry today in which the writer received an email from a friend advising him to 

'come on home and get back to an ordinary life, because you don’t want to be out there when you’re old'.

It really got me thinking once more about what it means to 'settle down' and what does it mean to not do so.

I like to think that we have more opportunities nowadays to do more than we had in the past. Age limitations have less of an impact on us and I'm often really inspired by those who go back to university at a later age. When taking part in organised runs in Krakow, what amazes me is the fitness of some contestants who are at least twice my age but still manage to finish way ahead of me. Retired people who travel and are not afraid to rough it also alleviate my fears that old age simply involves waiting around to die.

Back to my main point, what does it mean to 'settle down'. The writer of the blog says that he has chosen an 'extraordinary' life ahead of an 'ordinary' one and this is why he continues to travel and not root himself to one place. I don't feel I can't totally agree that this is an 'extraordinary' life. It certainly is interesting and he is privileged to able to do this. Being in the one place your whole life can also be 'extraordinary'. There are many benefits to this. Stability is one, the chance to build and continuity are others. 

I think we generally have more options and are more fluid because of this. We have more information and more of us don't know where we will be next week never mind next year.
Is there an age when we should settle down and have a family or is there more than one time in which we can do this? I am of the opinion that it is all relative to who you are, who you meet and what you want. I certainly don't want to feel limited by my age in any way and try to maintain an optimistic outlook on where I am currently am and recently have been really trying to look at future changes as new challenges to better myself and not as the means to run from problems. 

This post has been written in Oxford where I am working for a summer school. It has been heavily influenced by meeting people from all over the world. It hasn't been edited or even reread but if you are interested in reading the post that inspired it, click on the link below. 

The Professional Hobo Blog Link

Book Review of More or Less by Jeff Shinabarger

More or Less by Jeff Shinabarger

I think most of us don’t think of ourselves as being rich or of having enough money to make our lives more complete. In this book by Jeff Shinabarger, the author challenges this mindset, directly stating that ‘Chances are, if you are reading this book, you are rich’ (2013). By “rich”, he means that we have all we need to live a normal fulfilling life. He challenges us as the reader to look at our own situations carefully and think about all the excess possessions we don’t really need to have. This book is not simply about the author sharing theoretical ideas that we can contemplate, he shows us practical ways how to turn our excess possessions into generosity towards others.

          Shinabarger’s encounter with Clarence, a local homeless man, who welcomes him after he moves into his new house in East Atlanta village is the pivotal moment when the author is forced to change his way of thinking and to ask himself the question ‘what is enough?’ He begins by examining his own comfortable financial and material position and contrasts it with Clarence who is homeless. When Clarence asks for help, he does so and also uncovers other ways to help those who need it.

          Through a series of stories and his own personal anecdotes, the author explains real life examples of the things we can do to help people that we know either personally or not. At the end of each chapter, there is the ‘Enough Talk’ section that offers practical ideas, which the reader is encouraged to undertake. The first task the author himself does is to live for one month on all of the food in his home. Amazingly, he manages to survive on this for about two months (147 meals, 3 meals a days for 7 weeks) proving that there was so much food in his house that he and his wife had kept in storage. This is just the first of many examples he gives to show the excess in his life that many of us have in common in some way.

          Different chapters focus on different areas of our lives that we can look at and change. Clothes, presents and other material possessions are looked at from the point of view that invites the reader to take at look at his / her own life and the excesses we may have. A personal success of the author is Gift Card Giver, a scheme devised to collect unwanted or unused gift cards in order to then donate them to others who are worse off than we are. This has been immensely successful with enormous amounts of money raised to help out people who need this.  This is a prime example of how we can use our excess things of value to help those who need it.

This book is a motivating read for those looking to get some ideas on how to connect with other people and also to have a look at themselves from a different perspective. It offers refreshing ideas on how to make changes in our lives and encourages us to lead by example, which will then have a knock on effect on others. Shinabarger’s book is refreshingly honest as the author admits moments when he felt that things were not quite right in his own life. The most empowering element about this book is that he changed and there are many other examples of how other people also did something positive with their lives. I recommend this book for all those out there who are looking for some practical ideas on how to be more generous and how to be connected with other people in their communities and elsewhere. It is sometimes hard to believe that little gestures can make a big difference but this is something that Shinabarger argues against in this book. Through his examples and suggestions, he challenges us to contemplate what we can do to make a difference, however small that may be. It has certainly made me think about the excess in my life. Now it's time to do something about it.

More or Less, (2013) Jeff Shinabarger, Published by David C. Cook, Canada.

Writing From Experience Or Not?

It seems I haven't written in a long, long time and that is true. The last entry was in November last year. Since writing about the cycling tripI went on, I haven't had any travel adventures besides a trip home for the Christmas period. The lack of travel has brought a question to mind - is it necessary to experience in order to write and in my case, does traveling aid creativity?

A few years ago I took part in a Literature course in Dublin. There was a fantastic professor who had a wonderful knowledge of the subject and the ability to portray this in a very interesting manner. One of the books we looked at was Black List Section H by Francis Stuart, an Irish writer who went to Germany during World War II. He went there to experience the horrific events that were taking place at that time and to write about this. He even took up a post working for the Nazi regime. The professor proceeded to talk about the influence the philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche had on Francis Stuart. He explained that the philosopher used the Greek characters, Apollo and Dionysius to show the different ways of gaining inspiration. Apollo is the restrained one and represents creativity emanating from imagination alone whereas, Dionysius is excessive and reckless representing creativity from experience. 

The reaction from my classmates was very crtitical and they the majority stated that this was completely immoral. While I totally agree, I still find it interesting to read about what this Irish writer did in order to gain the experience to then write about it. There are some people with very imaginative minds who can conjure up stories and songs effortlessly but others need something to happen in order to write about it. 

I don't plan to go on any trips to dangerous war-torn countries but perhaps a trip of some sort would give me something to write about. 

The Final Day - Day Eight 1/9/12 From Kraków to Toruń

The hostel was very peaceful when I woke up. My luck had run out regarding the weather. It was the first time it had been really bad but I knew I couldn't stay in Płock as I was running out of time and was eager to get to Toruń, the city of gingerbread and Copernicus. Once again I ate a large meal.  This time it was eggs and beans for breakfast. The rain was not heavy but drizzly and steady. It was a chance to try out my striking red smock. It was not pleasant at all - the weather I mean but I had to keep going.
       I took the 559 road to Lipno. What made cycling hard was the fact that there were grooves in sides of the road where water had lodged. This was slippery and a lot of concentration was needed to not fall off my bike.Wearing the smock also meant that I was very hot underneath it and was wet as a result of this and the rain.
        I was not sure if this was the last day of cycling or not. I still had time before my parents were due to arrive and I knew I could always meet them a bit later in Gdańsk and complete the route I had set out to do. On the other hand, I was tired and the gears on the bike were not behaving themselves. My plan was to get to Toruń and then make a decision.
      The hardest part of the first 50km was from about 9km from Lipno. The rain had eased off by then but the road was in very poor condition making it impossible to build up some speed. I felt my bike was taking a real hammering on the uneven surface and was afraid of something breaking off or of a wheel coming loose. .

Lipno was not very impressive. There were lots of shops and a nice park where I ate some lunch but not much else to see or do. This was the halfway mark of a journey of around 100km. I was tired but determined to get to Toruń. The next stage of the trip was all on done on a busy road - number 10. Despite my previous fears that this would be dangerous to cycle on, it turned out to be the opposite. The road was nice and smooth and there was a hard shoulder where I could ride with enough space separating me from the  other cars. I rode really hard and soon 48km had been reduced to 24km. This inspired me to dig into my energy supplies and keep pushing hard to reach Toruń. The last part took longer than expected as I passed from the 10 to the 80. Every sign I saw, I expected to signal the end but there was still a long way to go. I was tempted to stop and have a break or buy some chocolate but I felt that I was close so I didn't. The way into Toruń was on a really busy road which was definitely not for cyclists. It was very wide but fortunately, I only had to use this road for a short time before I was in the suburbs of Toruń. I felt very satisfied with myself. I had made it on a day which had been quite a challenge.
       My first impressions of the Old Town were striking. The Old Town was full of tourists and it was easy to see why. The architecture was beautiful with a lot to capture my attention. Accommodation first and then time to walk around. I tried one hostel but it was full. At another one, they were also full but they had a second hostel which thankfully had a free bed. I was really tired but satifsied and felt that another two days of cycling was not something I wanted to do. I had made it to Toruń, not to Gdańsk but I was content with that.
       Once I showered, washed and then changed my clothes, I set out to explore the city. It was very pleasant to wander around the cobble-stoned streets searching for and finding interesting things.
Knowing that I didn't have to rush myself was also a pleasant feeling. I didn't have to think about cycling the next day. I was done.

       The trip had been a very fulfilling experience. I had seen a lot of Poland I wouldn't have had the chance to see otherwise. There had been ups and downs as I had anticipated with particular bike problems that I couldn't have planned for. The most memorable part had definitely been the route to Kazimierz. This had really embedded itself into my memory. I thought back to some of the people I'd met - the drunk pervert in Staszów, the cyclist on the way to Żabno and the kind woman in Kazimierz who had helped me get my bike fixed, my friend's mother and aunt who had looked after me in Czerwonka. I was happy to be finished despite having a slight urge to go all the way to Gdańsk by bike. I had ignored most Amber Trail route which I had mapped out because it was too long and it would have been easy to get lost in the forests that the route went through. I had made my own route which sometimes involved taking main roads because they were more direct despite being more unpleasant. My bicycle had caused me some problems with two punctures, chain difficulties and one repair job on the back wheel. My knee felt much better and I felt stronger with the exception of the circulation problems in my little fingers on both hands. I suppose this was from gripping the handlebars tightly for long periods of time. I had learned a lot and knew what I needed to change for the next trip. A new bike would be good, a smaller tent and gloves. Also a speedometer would have been very useful. I don't know when the next trip will be but perhaps I will go south along the Amber Trail from Kraków to Budapest. That's the idea but not until Spring or Summer. Thanks for reading. Hope you enjoyed it.

Day Seven - 31/8/12 From Kraków to Toruń

The great amount of cycling I did the day before made for stiff muscles on day 7. I ate two bars of chocolate before two o'clock which says something about the condition I was in and the desire to gain energy from somewhere. The road leading out of Leszno was a mess but instead of taking the diversion, I decided to be stubborn and go through the roadworks as I was afraid of getting lost. They went on for longer than I thought and made for slow progress with strange looks coming at me from the construction workers.
            Once I got past that, I managed to gather some momentum and speed. The route was pleasant enough and all was going well but then I felt that funny sensation in the back wheel and realised I had another puncture. The wheel was not completely flat but was definitely soft. I stopped at a shop and asked the lady working there for a bucket of water to help me find the problem. She was very friendly and duly obliged. Fixing the tube again was surprisingly not so difficult but put the fear into me that this was going to happen again in the future. So many problems with the bike and all this after having it serviced before setting off. I had been worried a little about getting punctures and had thought about replacing the tyres but it was too late now. I was just hoping I could get to Toruń without any more mishaps. 
           My aim for the day was not so clear. It was a case of just trying to see how far I could go. 
More roadworks in a town called Chodaków and more dust and noise. I had to backtrack a little here after taking a wrong turn and then it took me some time to find the bridge to Żuków. I think the mayhem of the roadworks was the cause of missing the correct turn left. 
Once I got across the River Bzura, I took the 577 all the way to the bigger main road called 60. One of the funniest place names I saw on the way was a town called Gąbin. According to the Oxford online dictionary a gombeen man is a person who is:

'involved in the lending of money at unreasonably high rates'

but in Ireland this word is used to describe someone who is basically an idiot.

      My strangest encounter in a rural area full of fields of cabbage and onions was with an old man on a bike who was wearing a hat. When I asked him for directions he looked at me with his mouth slightly open displaying his full selection of teeth which amounted to about five in total but he remained mute. I asked again but nothing changed in his blank expression so not knowing what to do, I thanked him and moved on. I rode fast and eventually made it to Płock but crossing Solidarity Bridge (Most Solidarności) was terrifying. I had to get off the busy road and lift my bike over the metal barrier and onto the footpath. It was far too dangerous for a cyclist to ride among the vehicles big and small that were roaring past.
       Fortunately in Płock I found a hostel without much difficulty. It was a bit expensive but very clean and well-equipped especially the kitchen. I took advantage of this by making a massive meal of pasta with fried onions, tomatoes and beans. It was a meal for two or three people but I devoured it on my own.
      Płock has some nice architecture and its lofted position over the River Vistula is attractive but there was not so much to see and do there. In the square in the Old Town there was a concert stage set up with some bands playing but the drizzly weather was unpleasant. I wandered around a little contemplating what to do but the gangs of males prowling the streets encouraged me to return to the hostel. Despite being a four-bed dorm, I had it all to myself. I fell asleep watching Polish TV, woke up not knowing where I was and then struggled to the bathroom in a haze to clean my teeth before hitting the hay for real.

     

              
         

Day Six 30/8/12 From Kraków to Toruń

Eggs for breakfast and too many were not enough. I don’t know how many I had but it was a lot. I felt well-fed, well-rested and ready to cycle the short distance to Warka and then to Warsaw. Before I left, I was also given a packed lunch for the journey by my friend’s mother. There was nothing else I could have asked for. Great hospitality and care.

          From Czerwonka, I took the 730 to Warka and then the 731 which later joined the 79. Góra Kalwaria is obviously a busy interection for lorry drivers as I have never seen so many lorries in one area. I felt tiny on my little bike in contrast to these metal, dirt spewing giants. The roundabout before the town was so crowded with them that I couldn’t wait to get away from there. I kept moving and took the less busy 724 which lead to Warsaw and this was where I felt something was wrong with the bike. I looked down to check what it was and saw that my back tyre was flat. This is always a risk but not something I had expected to have to deal with. There was a repair kit in my bag but my previous attempts to repair punctures have nearly always ended up with lots of frustration involving struggles to get the tryres off and on. I remember one occasion when I managed this but then somehow made another hole in the tube when putting the tyre back on.

There was no time to waste. I had to do something. There were some houses nearby so I approached one and opened the gate. As usual there was a dog there who made sure he was heard. The owner appeared and I explained the problem. He gave me the bucket I requested and let me get on with things. Surprisingly, fixing the puncture was relatively easy and it was not long before I was back on the road again feeling very proud and grateful for the help which came at the end when he helped me to wash the oil from my hands.

My pace picked up again and remained quite fast until I reached the outskirts of Warsaw. This was a proud moment and a photo moment. From Kraków to Warsaw felt good. It really felt like I had achieved something even though getting to the centre of the capital still took some time. The traffic was pretty heavy but I kept going at a fast pace until I reached sights that were familiar to me.

Time for lunch in Łazienkowski Park, a relaxing place to stop and a welcome break from the noisy traffic from earlier. The only thing was that now that I was in Warsaw, I wasn’t sure whether to stay or not. It was tempting. After eating all of my food supplies, disasater struck again, the chain came off my bike, not once but twice. I was really getting fed up with bike problems and felt like abandoning it in a ditch but couldn’t bring myself to do it even though my patience was really being tested.

After a bit more exploring in Warsaw that involved briefly going into the Old Town and then Old Praga, I decided to leave. Łomianki was next on my map but it turned out to be a mistake. By the Wisła there was a path but this turned into a dirt path that was too sandy at parts to manage so I had to dismount and walk. When I finally got back onto concrete again, a local woman helped me to get to Łomianki but then I was faced by a forest which scared me as it looked easy to get lost there. Nervously I ventured in feeling that there was no choice. I rode for a bit before deciding what to do. I didn’t want to take  the busy E77 or the forest so I backtracked and took the road to a place called Stary Babice and then rode past village after village in a daze. It was slowly starting to get dark and there was no sign of any accommodation anywhere so I kept pedaling as if trying to escaping the darkness creeping up behind me. This continued until I got to Leszno and that was when I asked a local if there was any accommodation in this town and was so happy when she gave me some good news.

Cycling past the forest to my right, I was so happy not to have to resort to camping wild once again. The sound of insects was a sure sign of being bitten multiple times during the night had I slept in a tent. The hotel that was recommended was not bad at all. The price for a room was really low at only 36PLN, without a TV I must add (it was 48PLN for a room with a  TV). The room was clean and very modern as was the hotel. What a surprise in such a quiet area called Julinek. Dinner back in Leszno and then a really scary cycle back in the dark before bed after a testing day.

From Kraków to Toruń - Day Four 28/8/12

The rest worked a little but my body was aching and in need of a lot more of the same. Attempts to fix my bike seemed to work initially but then the same strange feeling kept coming from the back wheel each time I pedalled. I was moving but something was not right and my fear was that it would get worse the further I went. My spirits were quite low and dropped lower when I discovered I was going the wrong way and had to turn back. They dropped even lower when I missed the ferry crossing at Kludzie because I hadn’t realised that the the object I saw in the water was the only ferry across the Wisła. It also didn't help that when I asked someone who was on it, they didn't really help in any way.

          I set myself a much less ambitious aim for the day, to get to Kazimierz Dolny which was not so far away. The route on the other side of the Wisła was very pleasant with orchard upon orchard lining the pretty, smooth road I cycled along. There was no heavy traffic, not much wind and no problems in making good speed towards Kazimierz. There was just the problem with the back wheel which was getting a little worse the more I traveled. At least I knew Kazimierz having been there before and was looking forward to returning.

          Soon I was only 12km away. I decided to follow one of the blue bike signs which led me up a massive hill which I had to walk up. At the top I was rewarded with a wonderful view of the surrounding countryside. People were working the land harvesting raspberries and more apples. This area really lifted my spirits and made all earlier frustration disappear. It was really something special and I was very tempted to ask for a job and stay for a couple of nights. Fruit-picking is something I have always wanted to do during the summer but have never gotten around to it yet.
Going down to the next village was tricky as the path was very uneven and once I got to the next road I decided to follow this to Kazimierz rather than the bike path sign which seemed to led off onto another dirt track.

          When I finally saw the sign which signalled the end of the day’s traveling, I felt relieved to have made it. My knee was still sore and the bike's condition had deteriorated even further with slipping gears another problem. Finding affordable accommodation was not easy with prices quite high but a little outside the town I found a great place to stay in an old wooden house that was run by two women, one who was particularly friendly and helpful.

          When I explained her the difficulties I was having with my bike, she told me to follow her. She drove slowly back into town and I kept up with her on my bike. She brought me to the only bike mechanic in the town who fixed the back wheel there and then and only charged me 5PLN for the work and 15PLN for replacing the damaged part on the back wheel. It was a lot less than the 215PLN fee I paid for the bike to be serviced in Krakow. With a fully functioning bike once more and a comfortable place to stay, I felt elated. 

          Kazimierz is a town famous for the artists that live there and the charming architecture. It is also located near the Wisła with wonderful views especially the one I saw as I walked around the town as the sun was setting. At night, I didn't do too much. After getting some food, I went for a coffee and returned early enough to my accomodation feeling more optimistic about the following day.

English Teaching - Why Do We Do It?

As I have had a lot of contact with teachers who have been living in such far-flung places such as: Bolivia, Mexico, Kazakhstan etc, I have been trying to figure out what it is that makes an TEFL teacher.

The title of this post is a question I often ask myself. What is it that makes English teachers leave the countries of their birth to seek new challenges and experiences elsewhere? Most of the teachers I have met over the years have some sort of interest in the arts. I have met many musicians, photographers, writers and so on. It has given me reason to ask myself - are they looking for inspiration for their art?

I guess there are also the teachers who want to escape from something from the past, perhaps a dark secret, a break up, boredom and so on. Leaving gives them a chance to wipe the slate clean and start over in a location where they are unknown and have no baggage or past to taint their reputations. New people, new challenges, and perhaps a new leaf to turn over.

People often say to me 'You are so lucky. You can travel anywhere in the world.' While this is very true, do I really want to do this? Loneliness and a lack of belonging to anyone location is another aspect of the TEFL teacher that seems to be a challenge to deal with. You go 'home' and you don't feel good there, you go to another place and once again you have to try to find a way to feel connected to the society there. Some people I have met want to put a stop to this restlessness but find it impossible to do so. Language is a big barrier but culture can be equally so.

So 'why do we do it'? I don't know. Perhaps it is a form of escape, the desire for new experiences, the need to learn something new, the lack of other options available or a mixture of all of these factors. Are we fortunate to be able to use something given to us from birth as the means to travel and have new experiences? I think so, but there are also negatives that balance this good fortune and give cause for complaint and even frustration.

Moan For Today

Having had a problem for some time with what I consider to be my 'Black Speed Demon' - not to be mistaken with my 'Black Beauty' - I decided to try to get if fixed. The problem was with the pedal which was loose and in danger of coming off. After a lot of careful consideration I figured that the risk of becoming a road decoration was too high so I finally resolved to do something about it.

The first shop I entered was full of happy helping people who even held open the door for me as I struggled inside with my injured steel horse. Upon further inquiry I was informed that she would be restored to her former glory and ready to be ridden again in no time once for the modest cost of 110zl including a new basket as the old was was broken like an exposed blade.
'Pan mozna zostawic rower ale przyjechadz znowu w Poniedzialek' ('Sir may leave behind his bicycle or return again on Monday') I was informed because the piece I needed was not yet available but there was no need to fret their warm smiles told me and after again having the door held open for me, the day seemed so much brighter than before bringing a smile to my own face.

Cruising home in no great rush I decided to check the competition and to see if they were as charming. The door was not held open for me which was a bad start and gave them a minus rating. There were no smiles but the gruff man took the bike and got to work straight away which was something that hadn't happened earlier - interesting. I waited patiently while he worked away and, prosze bardzo - it was fixed. How much? 10zl.

I felt so happy that I also decided to buy a back light and a new basket. Riding on my wheels in her full beauty, I couldn't believe how close I had been to being ripped off until I got home and realised that after the short journey I had the same problem again. At least I have a new basket and light I suppose.