From Gardening to Farming

As a certified horticulturist I thought I knew something about how to make things grow but it turns out that beyond the basic requirements of watering, providing sun and keeping plants in reasonable conditions, I don't know so much.

It's been a long time since I studied Horticulture and there is very little I remember, however I didn't think that my skills were so lacking.

I have gathered some knowledge in recent times from helping out at a my friends' land and have learned to distinguish weeds from strawberries for one thing. Working on my girlfriend's grandparents' land has also helped but when you don't have the help of experienced people it's not so easy. My girlfriend, Yulia, has a lot of experience but there are questions that need answering when it comes to planning and preparation of certain crops.

Before all of that, we had to figure out how to obtain a piece of land to grow things on. With our limited funds we thought we would just ask as many people as we could and also search online with the unrealistic hope that someone had a piece of land that they would be willing to let us use for free or at least for a very low price. This was a very idealistic plan but it actually worked.



About 25 km from Bratislava we now have the place we envisaged for some time but never really thought was possible. It is a proper farm with a neighbour with hens. There is even a vineyard on it and we've been told that on a good year, the owner produced as much as 300 litres of wine.

There is a big patch of land and also a little cottage and basement. Absolutely perfect.


It does need some work and we've just started to realise how much of a commitment it is to plant and maintain such a large area. We've also had rat problems in the basement. These horrible creatures have made a mess of potatoes that were stored there and it seems that there are quite a few of them lurking in the depths of our cellar. Poison has been put there and we've found two dead bodies to date but suspect there will be more. The soil is also a bit stony in parts. We've been given lots of advice on how to take care of the grapes but most of them involve spraying them with chemicals which we are reluctant to use.

So far we've planted carrots, beans, onions, potatoes, radish and weeded a large area of strawberries. We've also lit a huge fire of old vine branches which probably put us first on our neighbours' hit lit with all the smoke that blew in their direction.

There's a lot to do but it's been enjoyable so far despite the aches I'm feeling in my back right now.

From Bratislava to Vienna

It's been a while since I have taken my steel horse and gone on a journey of any considerable distance which is why last weekend's trip to Vienna was particularly enjoyable but a bit painful. It was a very foggy day, but at least it was calm with no rain.
The logic behind just wearing a long-sleeved t-shirt and a fleece was that I would sweat less. It kind of worked but it meant that when I stopped, I really felt the cold. I'm not used to cycling in such low temperatures and perhaps I was wishfully thinking that it's still summer.

 The hardest part was getting out of Bratislava but once I found the bike route, it was pretty easy to follow. Crossing the border which is so close to Bratislava was a thrill as I imagined how difficult it once used to be to enter into either country. Some of the small towns in Austria along the route are really quite nice and it would have been easy to stop there for a while if I'd had a bit more time.

Hainburg an der Donau is particulary interesting mainly because of the castle perched on a hill. You can't really see it in the picture below because of the thick fog but it's a destination I would like to return to when I have more time.

I think the hardest part mentally was the road through the Donau-Auen National Park. There was a bike path all the way but the fact that it was straight with no interesting curves or turns made it challenging. This is the reason why I ditched this path and went back onto main roads. I was in need of changes in scenery and some twists and turns. Of course I got a bit lost but with the help of some locals I soon got back on track.

My sugar levels dropped radically just before reaching Vienna and I had to binge on some chocolate to get me the rest of the way there. As expected, it took a long time to get from the edge of the city into the centre but it was a pleasant ride with bike paths most of the way. Vienna has an impressive biking infrastructure which I really enjoyed using. Unfortunately Bratislava has a far inferior system but here's hoping that this will change.

To come back I took the train as I was exhausted at the end, satisfied but tired. It's definitely possible to do a return trip in one day but it really would take a lot more energy and a higher fitness level than I currently have to do it.

Next up, (perhaps in the spring) is Budapest once again.

Biking in Poland from Kraków to Toruń (Summary of experiences from last year's adventure)

On 25th of September last year I finally set out to do something I had been scheming to do all summer while I was cooped up working at a summer school, go biking from Kraków to … Well, the initial aim was to follow the Amber Trail (Bursztynowe Szlak) all the way to Gdańsk but this proved difficult from the outset due to the lack of physical maps available and the shortage of information online. There was a website which promised much at first glance but failed to deliver. When I wrote an email to the contact address asking if there was a map available or more information, I didn’t receive a reply. With the aid of a road map of Poland, I traced out my own version of the route by circling each place of significance on it with the hope that everything would be clearer once I was actually there. I was hoping that there would be signs on the route as there was information on the website that this was the case. Another worry was that I also wasn’t sure if my borrowed bicycle was suitable for such a long trip. It had previously been ridden from Berlin to Kraków by its real owner so this reassured me a little.

Off The Beaten Track

In the past I have visited some Polish cities as well as countryside areas but this trip gave me the chance to really feel the country and in particular explore remote villages that are inaccessible for someone like me who can’t drive a car. What I found interesting is that it was hard to not be around any signs of civilization. Polish villages are usually quite spread out with houses not so close together. It is often hard to see the division between villages as there is often no clear border between them. This is unlike in Ireland where you can travel for a long time without seeing any sign of human activity. Many villages were not very prosperous in appearance with rather grey buildings lining narrow roads. This was not true all the time and some villages were quite well maintained but in general there was not much to make me want to stay in these places. Dogs regularly barked as I passed by with a heavy load, some threatened to add a bite to their bark. There were lots of chickens spread out on both sides of the road or frequently wandering around in drainage ditches. In some villages, there were no roads only dirt tracks but this wasn’t the case very often with some roads perfect for riding on. Seeing cabbage, onions and other food growing in the fields was interesting and gave me one reason to feel tempted to stay and work on the land. The most amazing memory I have of the trip was the route to Kazimerz Dolny through apple paradise with trees heavily laden with apples wherever I went. Further on I took a bike path up a steep hill and saw raspberries and other fruit being harvested in one of the most picturesque places I have seen. There was a strong temptation in me to stay there and ask for a job in return for a place to sleep for the night but I stuck to my cycling plan.

 Locals seemed surprised to see me passing through despite the fact that many lampposts had bike route signs on them but I never felt a sense of danger. One man joined me on a part of my trip. He was full of questions about me and told me he had lived in the U.S. for some time. He was keen to talk but cycled dangerously close to passing cars at times. Despite his age, he was faster than me and eventually continued on his own to the next town. The only places I saw signs for the Amber Trail was when I was leaving Nowa Huta in Kraków and in Bałtów, a resort by the Vistula River which was well set up for tourists with a dinosaur theme park one of its main attractions. The help of local people was invaluable. Without their directions, I would have wasted a lot of time going the wrong way. Another thing I must mention is the fact that as I was on my own, I often had to leave my bike unattended while I was shopping for food. Removing the panniers and carrying them and the tent with me was too much so this risk was necessary but not once did I have any problems or have anything stolen.

On The Beaten Track

Arriving into big cities such as Warsaw, Płock and Toruń were highlights especially the former as this really created a sense of achievement. The atmosphere was very different and much more commercial and business-like than in the countryside. Cafes and restaurants were crowded and there was a great sense of wealth and affluence in the capital. There were also a lot of tourists in the city taking photographs and leisurely strolling around especially in Nowy Świat, a busy location not far from the Old Town. It was strange seeing so many people in one place having been in the countryside for long periods. Płock and Toruń were similar with the latter being a place which seemed to be only for tourists. This was easy to understand given the wonderful architecture in the city.

Safety and Accommodation

Safety was an issue on larger roads as it is no place for cyclists. The lanes can be very narrow with the sides of the roads leading into a ditch or loose stones which can’t be cycled upon. I did take some of the main roads at times because they are obviously more direct with less chances of getting lost. This did mean taking more risks with one of the most dangerous parts of the trip, the section of the 757 road to Opatów that I rode on. The wind generated from passing trucks in the other lane nearly knocked me off my bike on multiple occasions. On the other hand, the busy 10 road from Lipno to Toruń was surprisingly comfortable. There was space enough for a cyclist and the road was in very good condition making it one of the easiest parts of the route. On the first night I asked two locals in a small village if I could pitch my tent somewhere and was refused and forced to camp wild.  Finding accommodation was difficult but locals were very helpful when I asked and directed me to places that weren’t well advertised.

To Sum Up

Toruń was the final stop due to the fact that I was planning to meet my parents on a certain date. I mainly travelled on a flat part of the country but passing by villages, towns and cities was a wonderful experience. Seeing food growing on the land was also something that I didn’t take for granted as fresh food is something I value greatly in Poland. I just wish that the route had been better mapped out as it was not so easy to find my way around especially when I was in some rural areas. It’s a shame there are not more campsites around as this would have made things a lot easier. Perhaps there are more campsites than I think but again they are not well signposted. Next on the Amber Trail for me is the route from Kraków to Budapest. At least I have a map for this part of the Amber Trail but I’m thinking about buying a new bike first.

This was written last year and since then I have indeed bought a new bike. More to come on this year's adventure soon.

Time to Settle Down or Not?

I chanced upon a blog entry today in which the writer received an email from a friend advising him to 

'come on home and get back to an ordinary life, because you don’t want to be out there when you’re old'.

It really got me thinking once more about what it means to 'settle down' and what does it mean to not do so.

I like to think that we have more opportunities nowadays to do more than we had in the past. Age limitations have less of an impact on us and I'm often really inspired by those who go back to university at a later age. When taking part in organised runs in Krakow, what amazes me is the fitness of some contestants who are at least twice my age but still manage to finish way ahead of me. Retired people who travel and are not afraid to rough it also alleviate my fears that old age simply involves waiting around to die.

Back to my main point, what does it mean to 'settle down'. The writer of the blog says that he has chosen an 'extraordinary' life ahead of an 'ordinary' one and this is why he continues to travel and not root himself to one place. I don't feel I can't totally agree that this is an 'extraordinary' life. It certainly is interesting and he is privileged to able to do this. Being in the one place your whole life can also be 'extraordinary'. There are many benefits to this. Stability is one, the chance to build and continuity are others. 

I think we generally have more options and are more fluid because of this. We have more information and more of us don't know where we will be next week never mind next year.
Is there an age when we should settle down and have a family or is there more than one time in which we can do this? I am of the opinion that it is all relative to who you are, who you meet and what you want. I certainly don't want to feel limited by my age in any way and try to maintain an optimistic outlook on where I am currently am and recently have been really trying to look at future changes as new challenges to better myself and not as the means to run from problems. 

This post has been written in Oxford where I am working for a summer school. It has been heavily influenced by meeting people from all over the world. It hasn't been edited or even reread but if you are interested in reading the post that inspired it, click on the link below. 

The Professional Hobo Blog Link

The Final Day - Day Eight 1/9/12 From Kraków to Toruń

The hostel was very peaceful when I woke up. My luck had run out regarding the weather. It was the first time it had been really bad but I knew I couldn't stay in Płock as I was running out of time and was eager to get to Toruń, the city of gingerbread and Copernicus. Once again I ate a large meal.  This time it was eggs and beans for breakfast. The rain was not heavy but drizzly and steady. It was a chance to try out my striking red smock. It was not pleasant at all - the weather I mean but I had to keep going.
       I took the 559 road to Lipno. What made cycling hard was the fact that there were grooves in sides of the road where water had lodged. This was slippery and a lot of concentration was needed to not fall off my bike.Wearing the smock also meant that I was very hot underneath it and was wet as a result of this and the rain.
        I was not sure if this was the last day of cycling or not. I still had time before my parents were due to arrive and I knew I could always meet them a bit later in Gdańsk and complete the route I had set out to do. On the other hand, I was tired and the gears on the bike were not behaving themselves. My plan was to get to Toruń and then make a decision.
      The hardest part of the first 50km was from about 9km from Lipno. The rain had eased off by then but the road was in very poor condition making it impossible to build up some speed. I felt my bike was taking a real hammering on the uneven surface and was afraid of something breaking off or of a wheel coming loose. .

Lipno was not very impressive. There were lots of shops and a nice park where I ate some lunch but not much else to see or do. This was the halfway mark of a journey of around 100km. I was tired but determined to get to Toruń. The next stage of the trip was all on done on a busy road - number 10. Despite my previous fears that this would be dangerous to cycle on, it turned out to be the opposite. The road was nice and smooth and there was a hard shoulder where I could ride with enough space separating me from the  other cars. I rode really hard and soon 48km had been reduced to 24km. This inspired me to dig into my energy supplies and keep pushing hard to reach Toruń. The last part took longer than expected as I passed from the 10 to the 80. Every sign I saw, I expected to signal the end but there was still a long way to go. I was tempted to stop and have a break or buy some chocolate but I felt that I was close so I didn't. The way into Toruń was on a really busy road which was definitely not for cyclists. It was very wide but fortunately, I only had to use this road for a short time before I was in the suburbs of Toruń. I felt very satisfied with myself. I had made it on a day which had been quite a challenge.
       My first impressions of the Old Town were striking. The Old Town was full of tourists and it was easy to see why. The architecture was beautiful with a lot to capture my attention. Accommodation first and then time to walk around. I tried one hostel but it was full. At another one, they were also full but they had a second hostel which thankfully had a free bed. I was really tired but satifsied and felt that another two days of cycling was not something I wanted to do. I had made it to Toruń, not to Gdańsk but I was content with that.
       Once I showered, washed and then changed my clothes, I set out to explore the city. It was very pleasant to wander around the cobble-stoned streets searching for and finding interesting things.
Knowing that I didn't have to rush myself was also a pleasant feeling. I didn't have to think about cycling the next day. I was done.

       The trip had been a very fulfilling experience. I had seen a lot of Poland I wouldn't have had the chance to see otherwise. There had been ups and downs as I had anticipated with particular bike problems that I couldn't have planned for. The most memorable part had definitely been the route to Kazimierz. This had really embedded itself into my memory. I thought back to some of the people I'd met - the drunk pervert in Staszów, the cyclist on the way to Żabno and the kind woman in Kazimierz who had helped me get my bike fixed, my friend's mother and aunt who had looked after me in Czerwonka. I was happy to be finished despite having a slight urge to go all the way to Gdańsk by bike. I had ignored most Amber Trail route which I had mapped out because it was too long and it would have been easy to get lost in the forests that the route went through. I had made my own route which sometimes involved taking main roads because they were more direct despite being more unpleasant. My bicycle had caused me some problems with two punctures, chain difficulties and one repair job on the back wheel. My knee felt much better and I felt stronger with the exception of the circulation problems in my little fingers on both hands. I suppose this was from gripping the handlebars tightly for long periods of time. I had learned a lot and knew what I needed to change for the next trip. A new bike would be good, a smaller tent and gloves. Also a speedometer would have been very useful. I don't know when the next trip will be but perhaps I will go south along the Amber Trail from Kraków to Budapest. That's the idea but not until Spring or Summer. Thanks for reading. Hope you enjoyed it.